Are the Galapagos worth the trip?

tortuga bay galapagos iguana

The Galapagos were on my bucket list for a long time, so I couldn’t wait to spend the last five days of 2018 on these islands. Needless to say that my expectations were quite high, as these islands have the reputation of being one of the most magical places in the world.

Due to its hefty price tag, only few people have the privilege to witness the Galapagos. As a consequence, it is also harder to get reliable information about the islands. I mean, all the blog articles you find online rave about the Galapagos, while you can hardly find any negative review about it.

Is that because these islands are so amazing? Or because most bloggers call any place they visit amazing (in the hope of getting something for free in return)? Do you know someone in person who has actually been there? Someone who will share his or her personal opinion with you?

So, here are my thoughts. Are the Galapagos worth the trip? Spoiler alert: it depends on what you’re looking for. But let’s start with some basics:

Traveling to the Galapagos can either be done by joining a cruise or creating your own land-based itinerary. I did the latter. Cruises are the more expensive way to travel with prices ranging between 2,000-3,000 dollars for a one-week tour. However, you could save some money by joining a last minute cruise, as prices for the last seats can drop to 700-1,000 dollars for a one-week cruise.

Just keep in mind that these last minute tours are not always available. Thus, you need some time to find one of these tours. I cannot say how long, but the internet says the average is a few days until you find a discounted tour. You will definitely see more places on a cruise (and also places you cannot visit if you stay on the islands and do day trips). In contrast to the cruises you are more flexible when you stay on the islands. Plus, you can spend more time on the four main islands.

Anyway, since I did not join a tour, all my thoughts are based on the land-based way of traveling. Moreover, I only spent time on Santa Cruz and Isla Isabela. Therefore, I cannot comment on two other two inhabited islands San Cristobal or Floreana.

ecuador galapagos tortoises
Giant tortoises in the Darwin Research Center.

So, are the Galapagos a worthy travel destination? I am hereby going to list all the pros and cons of the islands.

Why the Galapagos are worth the trip

Giant tortoises, sea-lions and iguanas – welcome to the Galapagos. The Galapagos are definitely a unique place on this planet. This archipelago of volcano islands is home to a large number of endemic species, and is therefore one of the most protected environments a traveler can visit. So, what are the Galapagos’ pros?

Obviously, seeing the animals is the coolest things the islands have to offer. It will not take long after your arrival until you see the first sea-lions. You will see tortoises, iguanas, red crabs and pelicans, and if you’re lucky also penguins, dolphins, sharks and flamingos.

galapagos islands sea lions
A common scene on the Galapagos.

The rules of the National Park say that you have to stay two meters away from the animals in order not to disturb them. So don’t expect to cuddle sea-lions all day long (I got asked a lot if you can touch them 🙂 ).

There isn’t only wildlife on the islands, though. Divers and snorkelers can also discover colorful underwater world of the Galapagos. These islands are a paradise for people interested in marine life, as there are numerous diving spots around the islands.

ecuador galapagos red crabs
Can you see the red crabs?

Other activities, apart from diving or snorkeling, are hiking or exploring the four main islands on your own. There are some free things (Tortuga Bay, Las Grietas, the Darwin Research Center etc.) to do on all islands. Nevertheless, keep in mind that diving/snorkeling remains the main activity.

To be honest, going to the Galapagos only because of the beaches isn’t really worth it. However, Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz island has one of the best beaches I have seen so far. In my opinion, you have to visit this beach when on the Galapagos, because it’s one of the few activities that are free of charge and it’s a good alternative to the diving and snorkeling tours.

Anyway, keep in mind that the Galapagos are not the best destination for swimming, as water temperatures are quite low (18-23°C seems to be the normal temperature) and currents are strong. There are some places, where you can swim, but don’t expect to have nice beach vacation here. The Galapagos ain’t the Bahamas.

Why the Galapagos are not worth the trip

The Galapagos have their ugly sides too. At least, there are some things to consider before you go…

First, travelers should be aware of the fact that the Galapagos don’t offer a lot of variety when it comes to activities. Divers and snorkelers probably don’t care about that, as you have countless perfect spots for diving or snorkeling. Travelers who don’t enjoy these activities might get bored after a while. You can do some free activities, but it’s not worth traveling to the islands just because of Tortuga Bay or the Darwin Research Center.

Second, the main islands, on which all the hotels are located, are in fact not very beautiful. These islands have their charm, but don’t expect to find a tropical getaway here. Obviously, Santa Cruz has Tortuga Bay with a stunning beach but the village Puerto Ayora is not very pretty. Isla Isabela is even worse in my opinion, because the island is full of garbage.

isla isabela galapagos islands dirty
Isla Isabela: paradise island?

The prices for a trip to the Galapagos are nasty too. The following list might help you a bit to estimate the costs:

  • Return flights: the normal price for flights from/to Quito or Guayaquil is $400-500, however, you might find cheaper flights if you’re lucky. It’s not possible to arrive by boat.
  • Additional cost after the arrival in Baltra: $100 entrance fee for the National Park, $20 for the registration (you pay that in Quito or Guayaquil at the check-in), $11 for the transportation to Puerto Ayora (2x $5 for the bus and $1 for the ferry). That means that you have already paid about $600 for flights and fees before you set foot on the islands.
  • Accommodation: $15 for a bed in a dorm, $40-50 for a basic double room.
  • Food: A normal main course with a drink costs about $25 in a restaurant. You can also find decent menus for $5 in Los Kioskos, a food street in Puerto Ayuro. It is absolutely possible to spend $15 only for food and snacks per day, but I think it’s more realistic to budget $30-60 per day.
  • Tours: Between $50-$250, but the popular day-trips start at $120. Most snorkeling trips set you back $140 or more. Prices for the popular trip to BartolomĂ© Island start at $170.

I believe, everyone has to decide for himself/herself if these prices are worth it.

prices galapago
A can of Red Bull costs $5 in the supermarket.

Another thing I didn’t like was the roughness of the sea. Most tourists go from one island to the other by boat (it’s possible to fly from Santa Cruz to San Cristobal though), and you cannot avoid a boat when you do a day-trip. The rough sea is going to be a nightmare for those who easily get seasick. I have seen many people throwing up on the boats and I also had to fight against it, although I usually never get seasick.

Conclusion: worth it or not?

Are the Galapagos a must-see place? It’s really hard to say. I have mixed feelings about the islands after spending five nights there. Seeing the sea-lions and iguanas was really cool. I also enjoyed the tour to BartolomĂ© island. And yes, Tortuga Bay was stunning. But the main islands were far away from being a paradise. Isla Isabela was even an island full of trash.

galapagos baltra airport to puerto ayora

As a conclusion, let me ask you the following question: are you a diver interested in unique marine life, or are you a biologist or a geologist? If you answer this question with yes, then the Galapagos are definitely a must-see destination.

However, if you don’t dive or do snorkeling, then I would say that the Galapagos are not worth the trip, unless you’re an absolute fanatic about sea-lions, tortoises and iguanas (or volcano landscapes). The main islands would be average at most without these animals. And don’t expect to see these creatures everywhere. I have only seen one tortoise outside of the Darwin Research Center (which is more or less a little zoo by the way).

isla isabela puerto villamil
Puerto Villamil’s main street

For me personally, I don’t regret this trip to the Galapagos, as I had a good time there. However, I didn’t enjoy it to the fullest and I think my expectations were too high. Besides, it’s really cool to see the sea-lions or iguanas three or four times, but after that I was good.

In my humble opinion, for one thing it’s good that the prices are so high in order to keep visitor numbers low and protect the environment. Then again what you get offered for these prices is not always value for money. That’s why I am almost 100% certain that my trip to the Galapags was a once in a lifetime travel experience.


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